Speed is one of the most important factors in surfing. Whether you’re riding a small wave at your local break or chasing big barrels on a remote reef, the ability to generate and maintain speed is key to mastering the sport. Surfers who can accelerate and control their speed are able to perform more dynamic maneuvers, link turns, and improve their overall wave-riding performance.
Speed in surfing is not just about going fast; it’s about using that speed to create flow, perform tricks, and navigate the wave’s contours. Mastering the technique to generate speed can dramatically elevate your skills, whether you’re a beginner or an advanced surfer.
In this article, we’ll dive deep into how to generate speed while surfing, the techniques used by professional surfers, and tips for improving your surfing speed. By understanding the mechanics behind speed generation and incorporating key strategies into your surfing practice, you’ll be able to maximize your performance on the waves.
Understanding the Basics of Speed in Surfing
Before learning how to generate speed, it’s important to understand how speed works in surfing. Speed in surfing is primarily derived from the energy of the wave, but it’s your ability to harness and manage that energy that determines how fast you can go.
When you’re on a wave, you are essentially riding the energy that the wave produces as it moves toward the shore. The steeper the wave, the faster the energy travels, and the greater your ability to generate speed. Your body position, timing, and technique all play a critical role in how much speed you can generate and maintain.
Speed can be categorized into two types:
Initial Speed: This is the speed generated when you first drop into the wave. It’s important to generate as much speed as possible during this phase to set up for the ride.
Sustained Speed: Once you’re up and riding, the key is maintaining that initial speed as you work your way down the line or around the wave. Surfers who can sustain speed are able to perform more aggressive turns and tricks.
Now that we have a basic understanding of how speed is created, let’s break down the techniques you can use to generate and sustain speed on the wave.
Body Position and Stance: The Foundation of Speed
The foundation of speed in surfing begins with proper body position and stance. Your posture on the board directly impacts how you interact with the wave, how much pressure you can apply to the board, and how much speed you can generate.
1. Proper Stance and Balance
When you’re on the wave, having a stable and centered stance will allow you to maintain control while generating speed.
Here are some key points to keep in mind:
Feet Position: Keep your feet shoulder-width apart, with your front foot angled slightly towards the nose of the board and your back foot centered over the tail.
Knee Flexion: Keep your knees slightly bent to allow your body to absorb the movements of the board and the wave. A low center of gravity will give you more control and stability.
Core Engagement: A strong core is essential for maintaining balance and making smooth adjustments to your position. Your core should be engaged, which allows you to stay solid on the board while also being able to make quick adjustments.
2. The “Drive” Position
In order to generate speed, you need to apply pressure to the board in the right way. The “drive” position is when you are focused on pushing against the wave, creating forward momentum. You can achieve this by leaning forward slightly as you approach the wave, allowing your board to “catch” the wave’s energy. This position also facilitates a smoother, more controlled transition into turns.
Generating Speed Through Paddling
Paddling is crucial when it comes to catching a wave and building speed. The faster and more efficiently you paddle, the quicker you can drop into the wave and start generating speed.
3. Paddling Technique
The technique used to paddle into the wave plays a massive role in your ability to build initial speed. Proper paddling technique involves:
Strong, Deep Strokes: Your paddle strokes should be deep and long to maximize momentum. Keep your arms extended and pull the water with each stroke.
Body Position: Keep your body centered on the board. When paddling, ensure your torso is aligned with the board so that your weight doesn’t shift too much. Too much weight on the back of the board will cause you to lose speed, while too much weight on the front may cause the nose to dip.
Timing: Paddling should be timed perfectly with the wave’s approach. Start paddling earlier to give yourself enough momentum to catch the wave and begin generating speed.
Maximizing Speed with the Right Wave Position
Once you’re on the wave, positioning becomes key to maximizing your speed. The wave’s face and the direction in which you ride have a direct impact on how much speed you can generate.
4. Riding the Steepest Part of the Wave
To generate speed, position yourself in the steepest part of the wave, just where the energy is greatest. This is typically closer to the breaking point of the wave. By staying in the pocket, or the critical part of the wave, you’ll tap into the wave’s full potential.
5. Utilizing the Wave’s Power
As you ride down the wave’s face, you should be making smooth turns to harness the wave’s power. Speed is best generated when you are engaging with the wave’s energy and using it to your advantage. You can build more speed by executing the following moves:
Bottom Turns: One of the best ways to generate speed is to perform a bottom turn, which is a sharp turn at the bottom of the wave as you carve back up the face. This will help you generate speed and set up for future maneuvers.
Top Turns: Once you’ve made a bottom turn, you can shift your momentum to the top of the wave. By executing a powerful top turn, you can maintain or build your speed.
6. Pumping for Speed
“Pumping” is a technique used by advanced surfers to generate and maintain speed while riding the wave. It involves using your legs and body to shift your weight and apply pressure to the board as you ride down and up the wave. By pushing and pulling on the wave’s face, you can create more forward momentum and increase your speed.
Carving and Turning: Key to Maintaining Speed
Once you’ve generated speed, the next challenge is to maintain it as you navigate the wave. Carving and turning are essential techniques for sustaining speed while performing dynamic maneuvers.
7. Engaging Your Rail
The rail of the surfboard is the edge that cuts through the water, and it plays a vital role in controlling your speed. By carving along the wave’s face using your board’s rail, you can gain control and increase your momentum. Properly engaging the rail while turning allows you to maintain or even accelerate your speed.
8. Combining Turns with Momentum
As you approach the lip or bottom of the wave, using a combination of sharp turns, quick maneuvers, and pressure on the rails will enable you to keep building momentum. Making smooth transitions between turns without losing too much speed is essential for fluidity and speed generation.
Advanced Techniques: Speed on Bigger Waves
On larger waves, generating speed becomes more critical as it allows you to perform bigger and more aggressive maneuvers.
Advanced surfers use a few additional techniques to achieve this.
9. Using the Wave’s Energy Efficiently
In big waves, the key to maintaining speed is using the energy of the wave without wasting it. By staying in the pocket, carving smoothly, and pumping with efficiency, you’ll avoid stalling and keep your momentum.
10. Advanced Pumping Techniques
For big waves, advanced surfers utilize a technique called “power pumping.” This involves a series of quick, high-energy pumps that keep you on the wave and allow you to navigate faster sections of the wave, such as when approaching the lip.
Conclusion
Generating speed in surfing is a combination of technique, timing, and body control. Whether you’re just learning the basics or trying to improve your performance on bigger waves, mastering speed generation is crucial for success. Through proper body position, efficient paddling, strategic wave positioning, and the right maneuvers, you can unlock your full potential as a surfer. Speed will not only enhance your ability to perform tricks and maneuvers but will also allow you to ride more powerful waves with confidence.