Big wave surfing is the ultimate test of a surfer’s physical endurance, mental fortitude, and technical skill. Unlike typical surfing, which relies on moderate-sized waves and more predictable conditions, big wave surfing places athletes in some of the most dangerous environments on Earth—massive, towering waves that can exceed 60 feet (18 meters), ferocious ocean currents, and high-impact wipeouts that can hold surfers underwater for up to two minutes.
It is not a sport for the faint of heart. Big wave surfers need a combination of elite cardiovascular fitness, explosive paddling strength, breath-holding capacity, sharp reflexes, and psychological resilience. They must be prepared not only to ride some of the heaviest waves on the planet, but also to survive brutal wipeouts and the raw power of the ocean.
In this article, we’ll break down how to train for big wave surfing, step-by-step. From physical conditioning and breath training to mental preparation and safety gear, each section is designed to guide surfers toward peak performance and safety in extreme surf.
What Is Big Wave Surfing?
Before diving into the training protocols, it’s essential to define what qualifies as “big wave surfing.” Generally, any wave over 20 feet (6 meters) is considered a big wave. However, professional big wave surfers often tackle monsters at 30 to 60 feet, with specialized spots like Mavericks (California), Jaws (Hawaii), and Nazaré (Portugal) producing waves even larger.
Big wave surfing differs from standard surfing in several ways:
Wave size and force: The volume and power of big waves are exponentially higher.
Equipment: Surfers use gun boards or tow-in boards, often with foot straps.
Risk: The risk of injury or drowning is significantly elevated.
Approach: Many surfers use jet ski tow-ins for waves too fast and steep to paddle into.
Building the Foundation – General Fitness and Endurance
Cardiovascular Conditioning
Big wave surfers must be able to paddle hard for extended periods, swim through strong currents, and recover quickly between waves. A strong aerobic base is critical.
Training methods:
Swimming laps in open water or a pool, focusing on endurance (30–60 minutes per session)
Interval training (HIIT) to mimic the burst-rest pattern of surfing
Running or cycling for aerobic base building
Strength and Functional Fitness
While bulk is not essential, strength in key muscle groups provides power, stability, and injury prevention. Functional, surf-specific movements are most effective.
Focus areas:
Shoulders and back (for paddling) – pull-ups, rows, resistance band work
Core stability – planks, rotational medicine ball throws, Pilates
Legs and hips – squats, lunges, balance board training
Explosiveness – plyometric push-ups, jump squats, kettlebell swings
Train 3–4 times a week, combining compound lifts with bodyweight exercises.
Breath-Holding and Apnea Training
One of the biggest dangers in big wave surfing is a long hold-down—when a surfer is trapped underwater by one or more waves. To prepare for this, surfers undergo breath-hold training, often with guidance from freediving instructors.
Static Apnea Training
Static apnea involves holding your breath while remaining still, usually lying down.
How to train:
Use CO₂ and O₂ tables (structured breath-hold intervals) to increase your tolerance
Start with relaxed holds and build duration slowly
Always train with a partner, never alone
Dynamic Apnea and Pool Drills
Dynamic apnea involves swimming underwater for distance. Pool-based drills simulate panic and recovery.
Examples:
- Underwater laps with rest intervals
- Burpee to underwater swims (e.g., 10 burpees → 1 underwater lap)
- Underwater object retrievals
Dry-Land Training
Even without water access, you can build breath control:
- Box breathing (e.g., inhale 4s, hold 4s, exhale 4s, hold 4s)
- Breath-hold walking or jogging
- CO₂ tolerance walks (walking while holding your breath after exhale)
Mental Preparation and Visualization
Big wave surfing is as much psychological as it is physical. Facing a 40-foot wall of water requires intense focus, emotional control, and mental toughness.
Visualization Techniques
Visualize riding large waves successfully, wiping out and recovering calmly, or paddling through heavy water. Mental rehearsal builds confidence and reduces panic.
Routine:
- 10–15 minutes of quiet visualization daily
- Use real footage of big wave spots
- Imagine all outcomes—both success and failure
Mindfulness and Meditation
Mindfulness builds composure and awareness, two vital traits during high-stress situations in the water.
Techniques:
- Daily seated meditation (start with 10 minutes)
- Guided apps like Headspace or Calm
- Use breath awareness to stay calm during training and surf sessions
Stress Simulation
Purposefully simulate high-stress environments in training:
- Cold water immersion
- Underwater obstacle courses
- Wipeout simulations in surf parks or pools
Controlled exposure helps normalize stress reactions.
Surf-Specific Training and Ocean Time
Big Wave Board Handling
Handling a 10-foot gun board or a tow-in board requires specific skills:
- Practice takeoffs and duck dives on large boards in moderate surf
- Tow-in training with jet skis (ensure you’re certified and trained)
Ocean Conditioning
Nothing replaces time in the ocean. Spend time in rough surf, swimming without a board, diving under sets, and learning to read conditions.
Tips:
- Surf heavier spots progressively, starting with mid-size days
- Learn from experienced big wave surfers
- Work with safety teams and spotters
Safety Systems and Partner Training
Safety is paramount in big wave surfing. Being prepared with the right gear and safety systems is critical.
Essential Gear
- Inflatable vests (CO₂ powered for emergency flotation)
- Leash and foot straps (strong and secure for tow-in surfing)
- Helmet (especially for shallow reef breaks)
- Impact vests (for added buoyancy and torso protection)
Rescue Protocols
All big wave surfers should be familiar with:
- Jet ski rescue systems
- CPR and emergency medical response
- Buddy rescue drills in surf or pools
Train regularly with your team. Surfing big waves without trained safety is reckless and highly discouraged.
Nutrition and Recovery for Peak Performance
Fueling the body correctly supports performance and recovery. Big wave surfing can burn thousands of calories in one session.
Key Nutrition Tips:
- High-protein meals for muscle repair
- Complex carbs for sustained energy
- Hydration with electrolytes
- Omega-3s to support joint health
Post-session recovery is just as important. Include:
- Stretching or yoga
- Massage or foam rolling
- Sleep optimization (7–9 hours nightly)
Step-by-Step Training Program (Weekly Outline)
Here’s a sample week of big wave surf training:
| Day | Focus |
| Monday | Strength Training + Static Apnea |
| Tuesday | Swimming Intervals + CO₂ Table |
| Wednesday | Yoga + Mental Visualization |
| Thursday | Dynamic Apnea + Plyometrics |
| Friday | Surf Session + Video Review |
| Saturday | Ocean Conditioning + Partner Rescue Drills |
| Sunday | Rest or Light Stretching + Meditation |
Conclusion
Big wave surfing is not just a sport—it’s a lifestyle of discipline, respect for the ocean, and constant preparation. It demands that surfers be in peak physical condition, possess sharp mental acuity, and have the courage to face fear without hesitation.
Training for big wave surfing is a long-term commitment. It’s about progression, not shortcuts. Whether you’re working on your lung capacity, sharpening your rescue skills, or visualizing the perfect drop at Nazaré, every step you take outside the water prepares you to survive—and thrive—inside it.