Pipeline surfing refers to riding the iconic wave break known as Banzai Pipeline, located on the North Shore of Oʻahu, Hawaii. It is one of the most famous and feared waves in the world, renowned for its perfect, barreling waves that break over a shallow coral reef, creating an awe-inspiring tube—or “pipeline”—that surfers attempt to ride through.
First ridden seriously in the 1960s, Pipeline has become a symbol of extreme surfing, reserved for only the most skilled and fearless wave riders. The wave not only defines the peak of performance in the sport but also pushes the limits of oceanic athleticism, timing, and courage.
The Location: Banzai Pipeline, Oʻahu, Hawaii
Pipeline is located at Ehukai Beach Park on the North Shore of Oʻahu, often referred to simply as “Pipe.” This region is known for its powerful winter swells, where waves consistently reach 10 to 20 feet—sometimes even larger.
What makes Pipeline particularly special is its reef formation, which causes waves to break in a predictable, hollow fashion. Unlike sandy-bottom breaks that produce soft, rolling waves, Pipeline’s shallow reef causes water to fold over itself with incredible force, creating a cylindrical “pipe” of water. This is the wave that surfers aim to enter and exit—ideally unscathed.
Anatomy of the Pipeline Wave
Pipeline actually features several different breaks across its reef system, making it a complex and evolving challenge depending on swell size and direction:
First Reef
The most iconic and most commonly surfed.
Breaks in 4–10 foot surf.
Offers perfectly shaped barrels that start quickly and end in deep water.
Second Reef
Activates when waves reach 12 feet or more.
Sits slightly deeper and further out.
Produces larger, slower-breaking waves that reform at First Reef.
Third Reef
Only breaks in massive swell conditions (15–20+ feet).
Far out to sea, providing early warning of incoming sets.
Considered extremely dangerous.
These layers allow Pipeline to shift in difficulty and style depending on conditions, but the shallow reef never loses its intimidating presence. Even a small mistake can result in serious injury from the sharp coral just inches beneath the surface.
The History of Pipeline Surfing
Pipeline surfing has a rich and colorful history. Although Hawaiian surfers were riding big waves long before Westerners arrived, Pipeline gained international attention in the 1960s.
Phil Edwards: The First Ride
In 1961, Californian surfer Phil Edwards became the first person documented to ride Pipeline. His daring ride marked the beginning of Pipeline’s legacy, forever changing the sport.
Gerry Lopez: Mr. Pipeline
In the 1970s, Gerry Lopez earned the nickname “Mr. Pipeline” for his unmatched style, courage, and dominance at this wave. His deep tube rides and fearless approach helped set the standard for generations of surfers to come.
Today, Pipeline is the stage for some of the biggest contests in professional surfing, including the Billabong Pipe Masters, part of the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour.
Why Pipeline is Considered the Ultimate Challenge
Shallow Reef
At many points, the reef is just 1–2 feet beneath the surface. This means any wipeout can result in serious cuts, broken bones, or worse.
Wave Power
Pipeline waves are not only tall but incredibly thick and heavy. When they crash, they explode with ferocity, creating dangerous turbulence beneath the surface.
Crowded Lineup
Pipeline attracts top surfers from around the world, especially during winter. This makes the lineup extremely crowded, competitive, and intimidating for all but the best.
Split-Second Decision Making
Surfers must decide instantly whether to go for a wave or pull back. Mistimed takeoffs or hesitation can lead to brutal consequences.
Navigating the Tube
Successfully riding inside the barrel—sometimes for several seconds—is the holy grail of surfing. It requires perfect positioning, timing, and wave knowledge.
Pipeline Surfing Techniques
Pipeline surfing isn’t for beginners. Even experienced surfers must adapt their technique specifically for this wave. Key skills include:
Late Takeoffs
The wave often jacks up quickly, forcing surfers to drop into near-vertical faces at the last second.
Tube Riding
Pipeline is all about the barrel. A successful ride means getting deep into the tube and emerging cleanly. This requires:
Low stance to reduce wind resistance.
Weight distribution to manage speed and control.
Eye tracking to monitor the shoulder of the wave and plan the exit.
Reading the Wave
Understanding which part of the reef the wave will break over is essential. Different swell directions affect how the wave forms and breaks.
Duck Diving
Surfers must be able to duck dive effectively through extremely powerful whitewater to reach the lineup.
Notable Pipeline Surfing Events and Competitions
Pipeline serves as the final stop of the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour, often determining the world title.
Billabong Pipe Masters
Held annually since 1971, this is the most prestigious event at Pipeline. Past champions include:
- Andy Irons
- Kelly Slater
- John John Florence
- Gabriel Medina
Volcom Pipe Pro
An elite-level competition showcasing rising talents and seasoned professionals alike.
Da Hui Backdoor Shootout
An invitation-only event that emphasizes Hawaiian local surfers and traditional surfing spirit.
Surfboards Used at Pipeline
To handle the intensity of Pipeline, surfers rely on boards with specific characteristics:
Gun Boards
Typically 6’6” to 7’4” in length.
Built for speed, stability, and steep drops.
Step-Ups
Slightly longer than typical shortboards.
Offer added control for bigger conditions.
Custom Shapes
Many pros use boards shaped specifically for Pipeline, designed to handle powerful barrels and late takeoffs.
Board Features
Heavy glassing to withstand wipeouts.
Rounded pin tails for better hold in the barrel.
Increased rocker for steep drops.
Dangers and Safety Considerations
Pipeline has tragically claimed the lives of both amateur and professional surfers. It’s critical to approach this wave with utmost respect and preparation.
Reef Hazards
Sharp, jagged coral that can slice skin easily.
Wipeouts can slam surfers into the reef at high speed.
Wave Impact
The lip of a breaking Pipeline wave can hit with hundreds of pounds of force.
Getting caught inside a set can hold surfers underwater for multiple waves.
Local Etiquette
Pipeline is governed by a strong local culture.
Disrespect or poor etiquette in the lineup is not tolerated and can result in confrontation—or worse.
Rip Currents
Strong lateral currents can drag surfers into dangerous areas or out to sea.
Spotters and Safety Gear
Many pros surf Pipeline with spotters on the beach, flotation vests, and helmets—especially in massive conditions.
Pipeline Surfing Culture
Pipeline is more than just a wave—it’s a cultural landmark. The beach is a gathering place for legends, local kids, global pros, and spectators who all share a love of surfing. Respecting local customs, traditions, and the ocean itself is crucial.
Many Hawaiian surfers see Pipeline as a spiritual wave, deeply connected to the land and history. Entering the lineup without the proper respect is not just risky—it’s considered an offense to the cultural roots of the area.
Training to Surf Pipeline
Pipeline is not a beginner’s wave. To surf it, a surfer typically trains for years in big-wave conditions, often progressing from:
Smaller reef breaks to understand wave mechanics.
Heavier beach breaks to simulate the drop-in.
Intermediate reef waves before even considering Pipeline.
Training also includes:
Apnea training to withstand hold-downs.
Strength and conditioning to paddle and duck dive effectively.
Local knowledge from experienced mentors or lifeguards.
Conclusion
Pipeline surfing is the ultimate test of skill, courage, and respect for the ocean. It’s not just about riding a wave—it’s about understanding the intricacies of nature, the heritage of Hawaiian surfing, and the physical and mental strength required to face one of the planet’s most formidable waves.
For those who dare, Pipeline offers the ride of a lifetime, an experience that defines the very spirit of surfing. But it’s not for everyone—and that’s exactly what makes it so legendary.