Rock climbing is an exhilarating and physically demanding sport that requires strength, skill, and precision. Whether you’re setting up an indoor climbing wall or preparing an outdoor route, one of the first decisions you’ll face is how many climbing holds you need. This number can vary depending on several factors, such as the type of climbing wall, the difficulty of the route, and the space available for holds. In this article, we will break down the essential factors to consider and help you determine the right number of climbing holds for your project.
Factors Affecting The Number of Climbing Holds You Need
Before diving into the specific numbers, it’s important to understand the key elements that will affect your decision. The number of holds needed can vary depending on:
- Type of Climbing Wall
- Difficulty Level of the Climb
- Wall Height and Space
- Type of Holds You Choose
- Climbing Style (Sport vs. Bouldering)
- Wall Design and Features
Let’s explore each of these factors in more detail.
1. Type of Climbing Wall
The type of wall you’re building will significantly impact how many holds you’ll need. There are several types of climbing walls, including:
Vertical Walls: These are straightforward walls with a slight incline or no incline at all. For these, you will need a moderate number of holds.
Overhangs or Roofs: These walls feature a more challenging angle, often more than 45 degrees. To make the climb both exciting and achievable, you’ll need additional holds for better grip and footholds.
Arches and Slabs: These walls feature non-vertical surfaces and often require creative placement of holds to maintain difficulty.
The steeper the wall, the more holds you’ll generally need to provide climbers with a balanced and safe route.
2. Difficulty Level of the Climb
The difficulty of the route will play a huge role in determining the number of holds you need. Generally, easier routes (beginner to intermediate) require more holds, while harder, more advanced routes often have fewer, smaller holds.
Easy Routes: On easy routes, climbers often need extra holds to ensure they can progress comfortably. These holds are often larger and more plentiful, giving beginners a greater chance of success.
Intermediate Routes: For an intermediate-level route, you may start using a combination of bigger and smaller holds, with fewer overall holds. The difficulty of the moves increases as the holds get more technical.
Advanced Routes: In advanced climbing, holds may be sparse and often smaller. These routes challenge the climber’s technique, precision, and strength, so fewer holds are placed strategically to make the route both difficult and rewarding.
For a typical beginner wall, you might use around 60-100 holds, while for a more advanced wall, you may need as few as 30-50.
3. Wall Height and Space
The total height and space available on your climbing wall are crucial factors in determining the number of holds required. A standard indoor climbing wall is usually between 10 to 15 feet tall, while outdoor climbing walls can go much higher. As the wall’s height increases, you will need more holds to ensure that climbers can move efficiently across the wall.
Additionally, the width of the wall also matters. A wide wall (e.g., 20-30 feet) will require more holds than a narrow wall. Keep in mind that holds should be spread out evenly across the surface to avoid cramping or overcrowding.
4. Type of Holds You Choose
Climbing holds come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials. The type of holds you use will influence how many you need for your wall. Common types of climbing holds include:
Jugs: These are large, easy-to-grip holds. They’re commonly used in beginner or intermediate routes.
Crimps: Small, thin holds that require precise finger placement.
Slopers: Holds that require the climber to use an open-handed grip.
These are typically more challenging.
Pinches: Holds where climbers squeeze with their fingers and thumb.
Volumes: Large, 3D objects that add difficulty and challenge the climber’s technique.
Some holds are used to create specific challenges, such as the overhang on a roof or the slopers on a slab. The number of holds needed will vary depending on the specific hold types you select.
5. Climbing Style (Sport vs. Bouldering)
The type of climbing—whether it’s sport climbing or bouldering—will impact the number of holds required.
Sport Climbing: Sport climbing routes are typically longer and more complex, requiring more holds to ensure that climbers can progress safely. You’ll want to place holds at intervals that help the climber maintain balance and rest while climbing.
Bouldering: Bouldering walls, on the other hand, are shorter (typically around 10-15 feet) and focus on short, intense challenges. The holds are often placed in a more concentrated manner, with fewer but harder holds. A bouldering wall may require fewer overall holds but more challenging ones.
6. Wall Design and Features
In addition to the type and height of your wall, the design and features you plan to incorporate will influence the number of holds you need. Do you plan on adding features like volumes, slants, or pockets? Features such as these can change how you place holds. For example, if you plan to create a wall with many features or angles, you may need to add additional holds to ensure the climber has enough options for movement.
Calculating The Number of Climbing Holds You Need
Now that we’ve covered the key factors, it’s time to think about how to calculate the number of holds you’ll need for your wall. Here’s a general guideline to help you determine the amount:
Measure the Height and Width of Your Wall: Start by measuring the surface area of the climbing wall. A larger surface area will naturally require more holds.
Determine the Type of Route: Decide whether the route will be easy, intermediate, or hard. More challenging routes will use fewer, smaller holds, while easier routes require more.
Space Between Holds: For an easy climb, space holds about 2-3 feet apart. For intermediate or difficult routes, the spacing will vary depending on the types of holds being used and the difficulty.
Consider Wall Features: If you plan to add extra features like volumes, slants, or overhangs, you will need to compensate for the added complexity with additional holds.
Example Calculation
For a 15-foot vertical wall, you might need:
For an Easy Route: Around 60-80 holds (larger holds, more spaced out).
For an Intermediate Route: Around 40-60 holds (a mix of large and small holds).
For an Advanced Route: Around 30-40 holds (fewer holds, smaller and more technical).
For a 10-foot bouldering wall, you might need:
For Easy Routes: Around 40-60 holds (bigger holds and easier moves).
For Hard Routes: Around 20-30 holds (smaller, more challenging holds).
Conclusion
Determining how many rock climbing holds you need is a process that depends on several factors, including the type of climbing wall, the difficulty of the climb, the design of the wall, and the type of holds you choose.
By considering these variables, you can plan a climbing wall that is not only safe but also challenging and fun for climbers of all levels.
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