The National Park Service (NPS) has officially abandoned its proposal to restrict the use of rock-climbing anchors in wilderness areas, a decision that has been met with widespread approval from the climbing community and wilderness advocates. This announcement, made on December 18, 2024, marks the end of a contentious debate that had lasted nearly two years.
The NPS stated it would discontinue the development of guidance that aimed to classify fixed climbing anchors as “permanent installations,” which are prohibited under the 1964 Wilderness Act. This proposed policy had raised concerns among climbers, who viewed it as an attack on their access to wilderness climbing routes. The plan would have affected over 50,000 climbing routes across various national parks and forests in 28 states, including famous locations like Yosemite and Zion National Park.
Cynthia Hernandez, a spokesperson for the NPS, confirmed that park leaders will manage climbing activities on a park-by-park basis in accordance with existing laws and policies. The agency received more than 12,000 comments regarding the proposal, highlighting the significant public interest and opposition it generated.
Climbing advocates celebrated the NPS’s decision. George Nickas, executive director of Wilderness Watch, expressed relief that the NPS had dropped what he called a “misguided policy.” He emphasized that existing laws already prohibit fixed anchors in wilderness areas without the need for new regulations.
Concerns had been raised that allowing a process for evaluating climbing bolts could set a precedent for other activities in wilderness areas, such as mountain biking or motorized access. Jonathan Jarvis, former NPS director, previously stated that while climbing is a legitimate use of wilderness, it must be carefully managed to protect these natural spaces.
While the NPS has withdrawn its proposal, it remains uncertain whether the U.S. Forest Service will follow suit with its own similar guidelines. The Access Fund’s VP of Policy and Government Affairs, Erik Murdock, noted that while this withdrawal is positive news for climbers, further advocacy is needed to address the Forest Service’s ongoing proposal.
In summary, the NPS’s decision to rescind its controversial plan reflects a responsive approach to public feedback and underscores the importance of balancing recreational activities with wilderness preservation.
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