Tyler Andrews, a 34-year-old ultra runner, has made headlines by breaking two speed climbing records in the Himalayas. Recently, he set the Fastest Known Time (FKT) on Manaslu, the eighth-highest mountain in the world, and followed it up with another record on Ama Dablam.
On September 19, 2024, Andrews completed the climb of Manaslu in just 9 hours and 52 minutes, surpassing the previous record held by Nepalese climber Pembe Gelje Sherpa by over two hours. This achievement adds to Andrews’ impressive tally of 69 FKTs, placing him among elite athletes like Kilian Jornet and Karl Egloff. Manaslu, which stands at 26,781 feet, is located in the Mansiri Himal range of Nepal and is known as the “Mountain of the Spirit.” Andrews also holds speed records for other major peaks, including Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua.
Less than two months after his success on Manaslu, Andrews set another FKT on Ama Dablam, often referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas.” He completed the round trip from base camp to summit in 6 hours, 20 minutes, and 30 seconds, narrowly beating French climber Mathéo Jacquemoud’s previous record by just three minutes. Reflecting on his achievement, Andrews said he was unsure of his success until he stopped the timer.
Ama Dablam is located in eastern Nepal’s Khumbu region and rises to 22,349 feet. Its name translates to “Mother’s Necklace” in Sherpa language, symbolizing its cultural significance to the Sherpa people.
The mountain is not only a popular climbing destination but also serves as a training ground for climbers preparing for Everest or Lhotse. The first successful ascent of Ama Dablam occurred in 1961 by a team from New Zealand and the United States.
Andrews’ latest record-breaking climb required both technical rock climbing skills and high-altitude mountaineering expertise. The typical ascent and descent on Ama Dablam takes about three to four weeks.
However, Andrews managed to complete it much faster.
In addition to his recent achievements on Manaslu and Ama Dablam, Andrews also set a record on Mera Peak. He ran from Lukla to Mera Peak’s summit and back in 16 hours. Mera Peak stands at 21,247 feet and is known for its stunning views of nearby Himalayan giants like Everest and Lhotse.
Andrews’ accomplishments over the past two years highlight his unique abilities as an ultra runner in extreme mountain environments.
His feats challenge traditional perceptions of who can conquer these high-altitude peaks. As he continues to push boundaries in the Himalayas, many are eager to see what records he will break next.
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