Nestled in the Andean heights of Chile, Portillo stands as a testament to South America’s classic ski culture, offering an escape where the modern world seems to pause. Here, skiers trade summer sandals for winter boots, carving paths through pristine snow while savoring pisco alongside the region’s renowned Carménère wine.
Perched atop the Super C couloir, a dramatic 4,000-foot descent, the hairpin turns of the road leading to Hotel Portillo resemble a precarious game of Jenga. This historic route, once a trail used by indigenous tribes, evolved into a railroad in 1910 and now serves as the main artery between Santiago, Chile, and Mendoza, Argentina. It is a vital link, heavily trafficked by trucks transporting goods over Uspallata Pass and shuttles ferrying skiers to the storied base of Ski Portillo, South America’s oldest ski resort.
The view from the top of the Super C reveals the mirrored expanse of Laguna del Inca, an alpine lake surrounded by rugged peaks and rocky slopes. Dominating the horizon is Aconcagua, the highest peak outside the Himalayas at nearly 23,000 feet, casting a formidable shadow over the landscape. Amidst this rugged beauty, the bright yellow façade of the hotel stands out as a beacon of warmth and welcome.
Reaching the summit of the Super C is no small feat. It begins with a grueling two-hour climb, especially after disembarking from the infamous Roca Jack lift. The challenge is intensified by the recent transition from the summer warmth of Colorado to the winter chill of Chile. Yet, the allure of August powder and the experience of waking up in winter from a summer slumber make the journey worthwhile.
For over 80 years, Portillo has attracted skiers from across the globe, drawn not only by the exceptional skiing and sunny Chilean weather but also by a unique charm that resists modern expansion trends. In contrast to other resorts that are expanding with new lifts and luxury condos, Portillo maintains its authentic character.
The story of Portillo’s preservation began in the early 1960s when businessman Bob Purcell acquired the Hotel Portillo at a government auction. He enlisted his nephew Henry Purcell, a Cornell-trained hotelier with Hilton experience, to manage the property. The younger Purcell, now a modest 79-year-old, recalls the transition with nostalgia. “I was ready to leave corporate life,” he says, reflecting on his decision to join the venture.
Early challenges were numerous. The remote location, accessible only by a six-hour train ride, frequently faced closures due to avalanches. During these times, Henry would organize food drops by plane, and “Portillo Uno,” the solitary telephone line, was the lifeline to the outside world. This simplicity, however, was part of the resort’s allure.
Ski legend Stein Eriksen, a visitor since the 1960s, appreciates the relaxed, communal atmosphere that characterized early Portillo visits. “It was a place with great camaraderie, food, and wine,” he reminisces.
In 1966, Portillo gained international acclaim when it hosted the Alpine World Ski Championships, the only one ever held in the Southern Hemisphere. This event, captured in Dick Barrymore’s film The Secret Race, brought global attention and solidified Portillo’s place in skiing history. The film showcased prominent skiers and highlighted the resort’s enduring charm, which has largely remained unchanged.
Henry Purcell’s commitment to preserving Portillo’s character has been steadfast. Eschewing modern development in favor of maintaining the resort’s authenticity, he has fostered a distinctive atmosphere appreciated by many but not to everyone’s taste. Despite advances like enhanced snow safety and in-room internet, Portillo remains a haven for those seeking genuine ski experiences rather than flashy amenities.
Veteran staff members, who have witnessed the growth of Henry’s son Miguel into the hotel’s general manager, continue to contribute to Portillo’s unique environment. Longtime employees like Juan Beiza, the beloved maître d’, and Jaime Cantillo, the seasoned bartender, embody the enduring spirit of Portillo, ensuring that every guest feels a part of its storied legacy.
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