In the world of rock climbing, there are many terms that define specific features or techniques. One such feature is a dihedral, a term that every rock climber should be familiar with. Whether you’re a beginner or an advanced climber, understanding what a dihedral is and how to approach it is crucial for mastering climbing routes. In this article, we will break down what a dihedral is, how to climb it, the challenges it presents, and the techniques that make it manageable.
Definition of A Dihedral
A dihedral in rock climbing refers to a corner or angle between two intersecting rock faces. This creates a natural “V” or “U” shaped feature in the rock that climbers can use for leverage. The word itself comes from the Latin roots “di-” meaning two and “hedron,” meaning faces. A dihedral can vary in width, from tight chimneys where only a part of your body fits, to wide, open corners that can provide more comfortable movements.
Dihedrals are common in traditional rock climbing, and they often serve as a key feature in a climbing route. Depending on the size and angle, dihedrals may be easy, moderate, or challenging to climb, requiring specific techniques.
Types of Dihedrals
Dihedrals can be classified into several types based on their angle, size, and how the rock faces meet. Below are some common types climbers might encounter:
Wide Dihedrals: These dihedrals are spacious, allowing a climber to use their hands and feet freely on both rock faces. These are typically easier to climb but still require technique to avoid overexertion.
Narrow Dihedrals: In these dihedrals, the two rock faces are closer together, forcing climbers to use more delicate body positioning and careful movement. Narrow dihedrals can be challenging, requiring precise footwork and sometimes the use of delicate crack climbing techniques.
Overhanging Dihedrals: These are dihedrals that tilt outward, creating an overhang. Climbing these requires more strength and skill as climbers must manage their body weight and keep their balance while dealing with the steep angle.
Vertical Dihedrals: Dihedrals that are nearly vertical present a different set of challenges. Climbers must often rely on the use of jams or locking positions to maintain stability.
Features of A Dihedral
The corner formation created by the dihedral has several features that climbers can use to aid their ascent. These features include:
Edges: These are the sharp lines where the two rock faces meet. Edges provide handholds and footholds for climbers to grip onto during their climb.
Jams: A climber may use hand jams, fist jams, or even arm jams to fit their body into the dihedral and gain stability. Jamming involves placing the hand or foot into a crack or angle and using friction to stay secure.
Smearing: In tighter dihedrals, where there are fewer solid footholds, climbers may need to smear their feet against the rock, using friction to hold their position while they reach for higher holds.
Laybacking: This technique involves leaning outwards from the dihedral while using the edge for handholds. This position helps climbers stay stable while moving up, especially on wider dihedrals.
Techniques for Climbing A Dihedral
Climbing a dihedral can be tricky, especially if the angle is steep or the crack is narrow. Here are some key techniques for climbing a dihedral:
Jamming: As mentioned earlier, jamming is a fundamental technique used in dihedrals. This involves placing the hand or foot in the crack and leveraging it to maintain position. For narrower dihedrals, using a fist jam or even an arm jam can make a significant difference.
Laybacking: For wider dihedrals, laybacking is often the go-to method. This technique involves leaning away from the corner, keeping your feet against one face while your hands grip the other. Laybacking is particularly useful when the dihedral is wide enough that you can’t fit your body comfortably in it.
Smearing: When footholds are sparse, climbers may use their climbing shoes to smear against the rock face for friction. Smearing requires good footwork and balance, as it relies on friction rather than traditional holds.
Using Opposing Forces: The unique geometry of a dihedral allows climbers to create opposing forces. By pressing one side of the body against one rock face while pushing against the other with the other side, climbers can generate balance and stability. This technique is especially useful in narrow or steep dihedrals.
Mantling: When reaching the top of a dihedral, climbers may encounter a ledge or a lip. To get over this obstacle, the mantling technique is often employed, where the climber uses their hands to push off while bringing their legs up.
How to Approach A Dihedral
Approaching a dihedral climb requires careful planning, especially for traditional or multi-pitch routes. Here are some considerations to keep in mind before tackling a dihedral:
Route Assessment: Take note of the dihedral’s angle and the type of rock. If it’s a wide dihedral, you might have more room to maneuver. If it’s narrow, expect a more technical climb. The presence of cracks, ledges, or other features can also affect your approach.
Body Positioning: Always be mindful of your body positioning. For narrow dihedrals, you may need to stay very close to the rock face, squeezing yourself into the corner. For wider dihedrals, you might use the layback technique or rely on opposition forces to keep your balance.
Footwork: Proper footwork is crucial, especially in dihedrals where the holds are limited. Smearing, precise placements, and effective use of friction can help you stay stable.
Use of Protection: When climbing a dihedral in traditional climbing, placing protection (such as cams or nuts) in the cracks along the dihedral is essential for safety. As dihedrals often have natural placements for gear, it is vital to secure yourself every few meters.
Challenges of Climbing A Dihedral
Climbing dihedrals can be challenging for several reasons:
Tight Spaces: Narrow dihedrals can feel claustrophobic, and moving your body through them may feel like a squeeze. This is particularly tough for climbers who aren’t comfortable with tight spaces.
Exposed Positions: Some dihedrals, especially overhanging ones, create exposed positions that require the climber to balance their weight carefully. The risk of swinging or falling is higher, making these climbs mentally taxing.
Limited Holds: In some dihedrals, holds can be scarce, particularly when the rock face is smooth or the dihedral is very narrow. This forces climbers to rely on their technical skills, such as precise footwork and careful jamming.
Strength and Endurance: Dihedrals require both strength and endurance. As climbers move up, they may need to use both hands and feet in different ways, which can tire the arms and legs quickly. This is why pacing and efficient movement are essential.
Safety Considerations
Like all rock climbing, safety should be a priority when climbing dihedrals. Here are some key safety tips:
Climb with a Partner: When tackling a dihedral, always climb with a trusted partner who can belay you properly. Having a belayer ensures that if you fall, you’ll be caught safely.
Use Proper Gear: Ensure that your climbing shoes are well-fitted, your chalk bag is accessible, and you have a helmet on to protect your head. Also, carry adequate protection gear, especially if you’re climbing traditionally.
Check Your Protection: If you’re placing gear in the dihedral, double-check that your placements are secure and that your ropes are not tangled.
Be Aware of Your Limits: Always know your climbing limits. If you encounter a dihedral that’s beyond your skill level, consider backing off and looking for a more manageable route.
Conclusion
In summary, a dihedral in rock climbing is a unique and challenging feature, offering both physical and mental challenges. Whether you’re encountering a wide or narrow corner, mastering the techniques such as jamming, laybacking, and smearing will help you navigate through these obstacles. With careful preparation, proper technique, and the right mindset, conquering a dihedral can be an incredibly rewarding experience.
Always climb safely, and remember, every dihedral offers a new opportunity to test and improve your climbing skills.
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